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Access Control Hardware · Katy 77491

Door Strike Wiring Service in Katy, TX 77491

Choosing an electric strike is a hardware specification problem before it is a wiring problem. Get the frame, the lip, the duty rating and the fail mode right and the pair of conductors is the easy part.

Licensed & insured20+ years low-voltageHollow metal & storefrontFail-secure & fail-safeFree on-site estimate

The frame decides the strike — everything else is negotiable

An electric strike is the frame half of the lock: it swaps the fixed plate the latch drops into for a hinged keeper a controller can swing aside. The latch never moves; the door just pushes open. That makes it the least invasive way to electrify an opening — nothing crosses the hinge gap, so there is no power transfer and no cable flexing all day.

There is no universal strike: identifying the frame and the latch eliminates most of the catalogue before anyone prices anything.

What the opening isWhat the body has to beIf it is wrong
Hollow metal frame, cylindrical lever locksetMortise body cut to the standard faceplate prep, lip measured to the stopOld cutout and new faceplate miss each other, and you are re-cutting a frame nobody budgeted to touch
Aluminum storefront, narrow stile, deadlatchNarrow-jamb body made for a tube jamb, with keeper geometry a deadlatch expectsIt will not fit the jamb, and a deadlatch plunger landing in the keeper pocket lets the door be shimmed open
Mortise lockset with latch and separate deadboltA body with a deadbolt cutout, plus a decision on who throws that boltThe credential frees the latch and the door still will not move: no strike retracts a thrown bolt
Rim exit device with a surface latchA surface-mounted rim strike matched to that deviceA frame-mortise body has nothing to capture a rim latch with
Wood jamb — older Katy homes, church buildingsMortise body in a cut, reinforced pocket, fastened into solid material behind the jambScrews in soft casing let the keeper creep out of line within one humidity season
Pair of doors on a removable mullionA body sized for the mullion, which must also carry conductorsThe assembly comes down to route wire

We photograph the latch edge, the existing plate and the frame head before a part is ordered. A strike specified from a phone description is the most reliable way to buy a second trip.

Lip length, faceplate prep and the quarter inch that ruins a door

The lip is the curved tail of the faceplate the latch rides over as the door closes. Its length is measured from the frame face to the centre of the stop, and it is the dimension most often guessed at.

  • Too short. The latch has nothing to ramp over, so it catches the edge of the pocket instead of being guided in. The door rattles shut without latching, or latches only when slammed.
  • Too long. The tail stands proud into the opening, snags sleeves and bag straps, and takes the impact every time somebody swings the door hard.
  • Prep mismatched. Metal removed for a body you later discover is wrong does not come back. On hollow metal that means a filler plate and a repaint at best.

Alongside the lip we check the door-edge gap, the throw of the latch bolt and how much of it actually engages. A latch catching a couple of millimetres works for a week, then starts missing as the door settles — better found with a tape measure than after the wire is in the wall.

Duty rating and fail mode are one decision, not two

Two lines on the datasheet are tied together, and treating them separately is how coils get destroyed.

Fail-secure

Unpowered, the keeper is locked and the latch held captive; applying power releases it for as long as the controller says. Current flows only for those few seconds, so an intermittent-duty coil is acceptable. When a transformer on the pole lets go the building stays locked from outside, and everyone inside still leaves by turning the lever — the strike never touched the inside of the door. This is our default for exterior doors and suite entries.

Fail-safe

Unpowered, the keeper is free, so it must be energised every minute the door is meant to be locked — a continuous-duty coil and continuous current in the power budget. Fail-safe is a deliberate choice made for a stated reason, and it changes supply sizing, the battery question and your security posture during an outage.

The expensive mistake: an intermittent-duty body wired to sit energised all day. It passes commissioning, gets warm within the hour and cooks its coil inside a week — a failure that looks random to the owner and is predictable from the datasheet.

On a fire-rated assembly the decision is already made: the door must stay positively latched, so fail-safe is off the table and the body has to be listed for fire doors with no hold-open feature.

Twelve volts at the panel is not twelve volts at the keeper

Most strikes take 12 or 24 volts DC, many are field-selectable with a jumper, and some are built for AC — which is where the buzz comes from, by design rather than by fault. Mixing them up damages coils, so we confirm what the body wants and what the supply delivers.

Then comes the part that gets skipped. A coil pulls noticeably more current releasing than holding. Size a supply on the holding figure and two doors firing in the same second brown each other out. Run a thin pair a long way and there is plenty of voltage at the panel and not enough at the door.

  • Measure at the coil, under actuation. A reading at the supply with the door idle proves nothing.
  • Gauge to the distance. A short run inside the frame head is comfortable on light conductor. A long home run back to a closet across a Katy strip-centre suite wants heavier copper, or 24 volts so the same drop is a smaller share of the supply.
  • Suppress the coil. A collapsing field pushes a spike back down the pair, pitting relay contacts and sometimes resetting the access panel every time the door fires. Better bodies include suppression; plenty do not, and we add it.
  • Keep power away from data. Sharing a jacket with unshielded reader data is how phantom reads begin.
  • Fuse per output. One shorted pair should take down one door, not the building.

Fire-rated openings, egress and the jobs we turn down

A fail-secure strike paired with a lever that always retracts the latch from inside does not interfere with leaving a building. Nobody needs a key, a code or special knowledge to get out. That is exactly why it is the workhorse of commercial access control, and it is a property we protect rather than engineer around.

The lines we hold on every opening in 77491:

  • Nothing is added to the inside of an egress door that requires a second action to open it.
  • On a labelled fire door the listing covers door, frame, closer and hardware as one assembly. A strike there must be listed for the use, fail-secure, and fitted without cuts the listing does not allow.
  • There is no compliant way to hold a fire door’s keeper open so it sits unlocked through business hours. If that door needs to stand open, the answer is hold-open hardware released by the alarm — different product, different design.
  • Where hardware must release on a fire alarm signal, that interface is designed in and proven at handover.

EVOTECH is a licensed and insured low-voltage contractor and has worked the Katy area for more than twenty years. Re-prepping a fire frame is door hardware work, not low-voltage work. When an opening needs a hardware contractor or the authority having jurisdiction first, that goes on the estimate instead of quietly becoming a cut.

What a door survey looks like across the 77491 delivery area

Mail addressed to 77491 lands across the whole Katy delivery territory — three counties and roughly seventy years of construction. One afternoon of surveys can run from a 1960s wood jamb near the original town centre, to a glass storefront in a newer retail strip, to a hollow metal frame in a business park off the I-10 corridor. None take the same body, so none get the same quote.

The survey is short and always the same:

  1. Cycle the door ten times, watching the latch enter the keeper. Most faults announce themselves here.
  2. Identify the lockset, the frame material and the existing prep.
  3. Check the closer, the hinges and how hard the shut door rests on the keeper.
  4. Find a wire path, and confirm whether the frame can be fished or has to be chased.
  5. Locate power and check any existing supply for spare fused capacity.
  6. Test the reader, keypad or intercom that will drive the strike.
  7. Write an itemised quote with the specific hardware named on it.

That visit is free and happens before you are asked to commit to anything.

The seven things that move a strike quote

We never price a door over the phone, because the variables below are the entire job and none are visible from a description.

  1. Frame construction. A frame that fishes cleanly is a different afternoon from one grouted solid when the building went up.
  2. Distance to power and controller. Conductor is cheap; the ceiling, the firewall and the finished tenant space in between are not.
  3. Whether a suitable supply exists. A spare fused output on a correctly sized supply removes a line item. A supply at capacity adds one.
  4. Fail mode. Continuous current changes the supply, and usually the battery conversation with it.
  5. Condition of the door. A sagging leaf or tired closer is corrected first, or the strike gets blamed for a mechanical fault.
  6. Occupied-building constraints. After-hours access, ceiling work above a finished suite and patching all carry real time.
  7. Opening count. A second door sharing a supply and a home run costs far less than the first.

Every estimate is itemised: hardware, cable, supply and labour as separate lines.

Frequently asked questions

If the power fails, does an electric strike lock me inside?
No. A strike only controls the frame side. The lockset on the door is untouched, so the inside lever retracts the latch mechanically with or without power. A fail-secure installation leaves the door locked to the outside and completely normal from the inside.
My door has a deadbolt as well as a latch. Does that matter?
A standard body releases the spring latch only. If the door has a separate deadbolt on a thumbturn or key, the credential frees the latch and the door still will not move. The options are a mortise lockset with a body cut for the bolt, or a change in how the bolt is used during operating hours.
Why does one strike buzz and another one clicks?
Some bodies run on alternating current and buzz while energised — historically a feature, giving audible confirmation the door is released. A direct-current body gives one clean click. A strike that used to click and has begun buzzing is usually being fed the wrong kind of power.
Can it run off the doorbell transformer that is already there?
Almost never, and it is a common cause of burnt transformers. Chime transformers are sized for a chime. A strike coil draws considerably more on release, and the voltage and current type often do not match the body’s rating.
How long does a single opening take?
Almost entirely down to the wire path. A frame that fishes with power nearby is a short visit. A grouted frame in a finished building, where conductors are chased and a raceway colour-matched, is a different scope.
Can you put a strike on a fire-rated stairwell door in a Katy office building?
Only with hardware listed for that use, wired fail-secure, and installed so the assembly keeps its listing. Some stairwell openings also carry re-entry requirements that dictate how the hardware behaves — a conversation with building management first.

Have the opening looked at before you buy the hardware

Send a photo of the latch edge and the frame, or book a free on-site estimate in Katy 77491. We will specify the body, the duty rating and the fail mode, and give you an itemised quote.

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